Friday, August 27, 2010

613 Pictures

Each state we've entered, we've read the Wikipedia entry for, which has been so much fun. We've learned about the mottos, demonyms (look it up!), state dances, and more; we've learned about all the famous people who were born or lived in those states; we've learned state capitols and vital statistics and economic drivers and histories of each one-- it's been great.

We arrived last night back in suburban Chicago after a mad dash across the country in six days. Last Friday, August 20, we reluctantly left the Left Coast, passed through Portland to pick up a few items we'd left there (subconscious desire to return), stopped in Pendleton, OR for ice cream, and stopped in Boise, ID for the night.

The next day we visited a great craft/farmer's market in downtown Boise, and then headed to the Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument. We stopped there at the National Fishery that raises one million steelhead each year that they then release into the Idaho River.

This was a particularly fascinating place to me, even though there's not a ton to see. That the place even exists is interesting; pretty cool that there's an effort to replenish the ecosystem destroyed by the damming of rivers. I also think a lot about industrial fisheries and have wondered what they look like-- now, I have an inkling.

At Hagerman itself, the little visitor's center turned out to be the most interesting part: it's the only place in the park where you can actually see fossils! Visitors are really only permitted to see much of the rest of the massive park from look out points and roads; we did see the remains of the ruts caused by wagon trains from pioneers on the Oregon Trail and read about those brave souls. Little did we know that the day after we visited, three quarters of the park would burn in a forest fire!

We ended the day in Salt Lake City, walking around the Temple by night,and saw some spectacular fireworks from the State Fair. Sorry once again that we didn't have more time to explore this interesting town. We thought about attending the performance of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, but Lev didn't quite make their minimum age, so we listened to the live broadcast on the radio on the way out of town!

Sunday, August 21, we drove to the spectacular Arches National Park, where we hiked around the North and South Windows, Turret Arch, and Double Arch, and took some great pictures of "The Three Gossips," "Park Avenue," and "Balanced Rock." What an incredible place... and we basically just happened on it as we glanced at the map a few days before looking for potentially interesting things to see. On the way out of the park, we chose to drive the long route on scenic route 128, which follows the Colorado River for more than 40 miles. It was another stunningly beautiful drive, and along the way we found Big Bend Bouldering area, a well-known place for rock climbers to practice their craft; we all tried out our skills and had a lot of fun.

We had dinner in Grand Junction, and drove into Aspen in the dark, arriving at a beautiful condo that some wonderful friends generously offered for us to use. We all collapsed, exhausted from another great day.

Monday the 23rd, we awoke to look out on the spectacular view of Aspen Mountain from our balcony. We headed to the Silver Queen gondolas to ride up the 3,000 feet to the top, where there were all kinds of fun kids activities. After a bit, it started to rain, so we went into the Sundeck to eat lunch and wait out the weather. When the rain stopped, we headed back down to town. We drove from there to Aspen Highlands. We took a shuttle from there to Maroon Bells park, site of stunning scenery-- some of the most photographed scenery in America, apparently, and we could see why. Heading back into town, we had dinner at Boogie's Diner, and ordered our milk shakes extra-thick. Back at the condo, the boys and I had a late night swim, and then warmed ourselves by the fireplace poolside-- what a great way to end the day!

On Tuesday, the boys surprised us by making breakfast. We poked around town for a bit, and then headed to Basalt, CO to see David Segal and Rollin Symmons. (David was our student rabbi for the past two years, and David and his wife were just hired to be the rabbi/cantor team at the Aspen Jewish Congregation.) We saw their beautiful new home, and had a great lunch at a local Mexican place. They showed us the library which has the best view in the world, and told us about a great playground where the boys let off some steam. We came back to Aspen, stopped by the synagogue for a little tour, ate some gelato at Paradise Bakery, and then went on a lovely hike on the Rio Grande Trail near the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies. We reconnected with David and Rollin for dinner at Little Annie's, then back to Paradise for more gelato (hey- we're on vacation!), and then brought them back to the condo for wine and more chatting-- it was terrific to see them and see their great new digs.

On August 25th we left Aspen, driving over Independence Pass at over 12,000 feet. We actually "lost" 11,000 feet as we ended the day in Omaha, NE at around 1,000 feet above sea level! On the way, we saw a marmot and a prong-horned antelope. We stopped in North Platte, NE at the Golden Spike Visitor's Center and Observation Tower-- the Bailey Yard of the Pacific Railroad-- in short, the world's largest rail yard. It was quite impressive; we all love trains, and this was a train-yard on steroids-- 8 miles long and 2 miles wide! The observation deck is staffed by volunteer train buffs who will talk your ear off about everything happening with the yard.

Thursday, we passed through Iowa-- our 18th and final new state on what will soon be 7,600 mile journey. Looking at a map, it didn't seem that there would be much to see along the road; what I really wanted to do was to see the Field of Dreams movie site, but it was simply too far off of Route 80. Elyssa located the National Balloon Museum and Hall of Fame, where we saw some cool hot air balloon related gear and memorabilia, and we also met some very nice people who told us about 10 more things we should see in Iowa-- turns out, there ARE things to see in this state; we'll have to come back. We had a dinner date to make with my mom back in Chicago!

Today we spent the penultimate day of the journey chilling in Chi-town-- got a long overdue oil change for the car, got hairs-cut for all the boys, took a lovely walk around Lake Katherine had dinner with my my aunt, my cousin and his kids. We just needed a relaxing day before the last long-haul-- 12 hours of driving to New Jersey tomorrow. We wanted to show my mom the pictures from our trip, so we took the SD card from our camera to Walgreen's to get the pics put on a CD. Turns out it took 3 CDs for all of them and, incredibly, randomly, there were a total of 613 pictures from the farm, camp, and our trip-- a very fortuitous Jewish number!

I've run out of superlatives to describe this journey, and this first summer of my sabbatical generally-- I know I've overused them all. It must be time for me to go back home, and to return to the work I love so much. I think it will truly take some time for all of these experiences to sink in, but I do feel renewed and refreshed for that great work and life that we've built these last 9+ years. Elyssa and I will celebrate our 18th wedding anniversary on September 6, and I am so thrilled that now more than half of those years have been spent in greater-Mahwah. I am immensely grateful for this time away, and will look forward to the second half in Jerusalem next summer, and I also feel blessed to be where I am in my life, both personally and professionally.

My staff gave me a bunch of parting gifts on my way out in May, but the one I've cherished most of all are a pair of little sparkly pink shoes. They told me that I should remember that "there's no place like home." After 6 weeks in a tent, 2 weeks at camp, and 4 weeks sleeping in some 14 different beds, I can honestly say that I'm ready to click those heels!

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Shabbat Musings-- from June 29, 2010


Today I was reminded about why I am a proud Reform Jew.
I slept gloriously late on this Shabbat morning. I got up and found my way to the kitchen, where an intense discussion was underway. It seems that the cholent pot, containing the slow-cooking traditional Shabbat stew, had been set on “low” before Shabbat, and there was concern that it had not cooked enough, and wouldn’t be fully cooked through for lunch, three hours hence.
A debate was raging. Could someone go over to Pearlstone, find a two-year old, bring them to the kitchen, and place them in front of the cholent pot until they happened, in innocent play, to turn the pot from low to high?
The discussion went on and on as I sat and ate my Cheerios. How old could the child be? Three was deemed too old, as they would no longer simply play, but need to be told what to do, and it was forbidden to instruct someone to turn the heat up, because it’s against Jewish law to benefit from the product of intentionally telling someone to violate Shabbat. In good halakhic form, one person told a story of a time when they were in a house where a major fuse blew, and one of the heads of household held a small child in front of the fuse box and said something like, “wow, Sammy, do you see anything to play with?”
Then, a woman in the process of conversion to Judaism said that she has to do one thing each Shabbat to violate the laws of the day, and she’d be willing to turn the pot up. Another lengthy discussion ensued, in which it was established that as long as no one had asked her to turn the pot up, and as long as it would redound to her benefit (ie. that she herself would be eating the cholent), the rest of us, if we happened to benefit from her self-interested actions, would be fine to consume it. She went and turned up the heat.
Having listened to what seemed to me a crazy conversation, especially in light of the fact that there is a ton of other food available for consumption in the kitchen, I blurted out something I now regret in front of the gathered group of 5 or 6 of my fellow intentional-community cohorts: “This,” I said, “is why I am a Reform Jew.”
I now sit here typing away furiously on this box that halakhah prohibits me from using on Shabbat, feeling terrible about having uttered what must have sounded a horribly judgmental statement. I really and truly feel bad—it was unlike me to do something like that.
It’s not an excuse, but I know that whatever my ideal Shabbat looks like, it’s not in that discussion.   I get turning the cholent on and then not doing any formal cooking on Shabbat—I actually really like to idea, and intend to try it when I get home. I get regretting that it was set on low, and bemoaning the fact that what should have been outstandingly tasty beans and potatoes will alas go to waste; this fits in with a religious ethic of letting go of some sense of control on Shabbat. What I don’t get in any way, shape, or form, is how luring in an unwitting baby into the kitchen, hoping (but not asking in any way) that the child might accidentally turn the pot up makes any sense at all. What I don’t accept as a part of my halakhah is how the concept of a Shabbes goy can be acceptable Jewish ethics. I admit that, early on in the conversation, I had half a mind to just go in and turn it up.
But if knew one thing, it was that I wasn’t going to be the Shabbes Reform Rabbi. I like intellectual discussions and debates as much as anyone. But to me, there’s a point where the discussion has to end. Either someone turn the pot up, or get out the cold (but yummy) pasta from last night. But if ritual practice in meant to lead to righteous living in the larger world, what are we teaching when we ask (in however veiled a way) our two year olds and our potential Jews by choice to do what we ourselves are unwilling to defile ourselves by doing?
Let Shabbat be a special time for honesty and straightforwardness in our dealings. Let it be a time of simplicity rather than intense complexity.
Postscript:

When I went back to the group to apologize after thinking, stewing, and writing these words over two hours, I found that:
a) no one was actually mad
b) for some, it sparked an interest in what I meant specifically, and, more broadly, sparked a general interest in the perspectives of Reform Judaism
c) One Orthodox woman shocked me by quietly saying, "you know, I have to admit that I, too, was thinking what a ridiculous conversation it was."

What a strange people we are...

A Beautiful Day in Cannon Beach

We visited the Tillamook Cheese Factory today, had a tour, and bought a bunch of cheese to take home. We then had Tillamook ice cream for lunch, which was a fabulous vacation treat.

We then made our way to Cannon Beach, the most charming and low-key little town we've encountered on this Left Coast. We walked along the beach for more than a mile out to Haystack Rock, an incredible outcropping made famous in the movie The Goonies. We explored the vibrant tidal basin along the side of the rock, and, guided by knowledgeable volunteers, we saw starfish sea anemones, and barnicles snacking away in the low tidal waters. It was really an amazing experience.

We then made our way up the beach a bit and pulled out the kites we had bought yesterday in Seaside for the boys, and they had their first ever kite flying experiences-- what fun! They were so proud of themselves; it was so windy we were a bit worried that Lev might fly away, but it all worked out well-- it was a tremendously beautiful, if brisk, day on the beach. Then to dinner in town and desert at Bruce's Candy Shop-- what fun!

Now I'm sitting and writing on the porch of my aunt and uncle's house, watching the sunset as a big sea bird has come to perch on the railing of the porch-- perhaps he's reading over my shoulder!

Tomorrow morning early we head out, back towards home. We'll stop in Portland to pick up a couple of items we forget there (a running theme of our trip!), and then on to Boise, Idaho.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Looks Like We Made It!

We made it across the country! As the trip odometer clicked over to 4000 miles, we arrived today at 10:45 a.m. in Canon Beach, OR on the Pacific Ocean to stay for a couple of days with my aunt and uncle.

We've had a fabulous week in Portland, visiting with Elyssa's cousins and exploring that great town. We cooked and ate our own pancakes at Slappycakes, ate the weirdest, wonderfulest donuts at Voodoo donuts, drank the world's best coffee (?) at Peets, had tea at the fantastic China Gardens, spent not enough time at Powell's Books, bought a cool new purse for Lys at Queen Bee, explored the Hollywood Farmers' Market, drank from the Benson bubblers, acquired fabulous treasures at the Spoonman, got a year's supply of grains at Bob's Red Mill, rode the Max, and learned alot at the World Forestry Center-- what a tremendous week. We spent great time with family we hardly knew before, and reconnected with one of my oldest friends and her new husband. If we didn't already have such a great home on the other coast, Portland might call our names!

Now we're on to the shore (no, not the Jersey shore!) for a couple of days of exploration, kite flying, sand dollar hunting, arcades, and more-- it should be terrific, too-- before we begin the journey back through the time zones. Hard to believe that we've made it this far. It felt so good to walk on the beach today--we were joking that we felt a little like Forrest Gump on his cross-country journey!

Yesterday I also took some time to begin organizing my sermon thoughts for the high holidays. On the one hand, I have alot to say about all the things I did; on the other, folks aren't coming to services to symbolically see my trip pictures. On the one hand, I feel that I've learned alot from my experiences-- lessons I'd like to share with the congregation. On the other hand, there's so much going on in the larger world that I feel moved to speak about...

Never a lack of things to say; just not enough time to say them all!

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

If it's Wednesday, it must be Idaho...

What a wonderful whirlwind we've had these last 6 days, 3,300 miles, 12 states. What a beautiful, crazy, wonderful country we have that I never really knew about!

Last Friday-- Chicago to Minneapolis via Madison, WI, my alma mater. I got to briefly show the kiddos around the campus-- great memories. Then we drove on to the Twin Cities, where we stayed with a great old friend of Elyssa and mine, and had brunch with more good friends from our youth.

Saturday we reluctantly headed out from Minneapolis to Rapid City, SD via Jim's Apple Farm, Minnesota's largest candy store (the sign which caught my eye was 20 feet tall and advertised 57 varieties of root beer and 86 varieties of licorice-- we tried them all), and a fabulous stop at the Corn Palace in Mitchell, SD.

Sunday 8/8 we had a fantastic day, spending time in Badlands National Park, Jewel Cave National Monument, and Mt. Rushmore for their evening ceremony-- we saw the monument all lit up in the dark. It was a remarkably inspiring patriotic moment. Along the way that day, we came to learn that we had happened upon the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, which brings in literally hundreds of thousands of bikers from around the country-- what a scene!

On Monday, we drove on to Devil's Tower National Monument-- a dream of my rock-climbing wife. We walked the loop trail around the monument and saw a slew of prairie dogs. On the road again, we passed Sturgis, SD and witnessed the incredible events taking place there. Driving into Wyoming, we first passed endless coal trains and oil rigs. Then, we ascended a stunningly beautiful 9,000 foot pass through the Big Horn Mountains, seeing cows, horses, sheep, mule deer, and more, plus rock formations that were 2.5 billion years old.

Leaving Cody, WY on Tuesday morning, we stopped at the Buffalo Bill Dam and then continued on what has been called the 52 most beautiful miles in America on the way into Yellowstone National Park. And then, what DIDN'T we see? We saw tons of bison, waterfalls, weird and smelly mud volcanoes, beautiful and amazing geysers, hot springs, and fumaroles (my favorite new word!) at the Norris Geyser Basin. What a surreal place! Then we made camp at a great site at Madison Campground and, discovering that I had forgotten to pack the camping stove, I proceeded to make mac and cheese in a frying pan over a campfire I built! Call it German stubbornness; call it primordial impulse of the caveman to feed his family at all costs; call it what you will-- they all seemed to enjoy it. Some Apples to Apples in the tent, and then, our first night camping as a family ever, in Yellowstone of all places, went so very well-- we all slept!

Today we started out at Old Faithful Geyser because we felt we had to, being in Yellowstone and all. Truthfully, it was a disappointment after the Norris Geyser Basin. O.F. is so commercialized, and, to us, not nearly as impressive as some of the other sights we saw elsewhere in the park... We drove out the west side of the park, up through Montana and into Coure d'Alene, Idaho. We stopped at some pretty other worldly gas stations and stands; if you ever need a place to hide in the woods, I can see why Southern Montana would be a good place to do so. We COULD have purchased fried chicken gizzards at a gas station, and we nearly tried to buy sodas at a place that, upon closer inspection, was readying itself for the "Testy Festy"-- a celebration of what I can only presume to be the delicacy of some part of the bull. Oy. I knew that we weren't in New Jersey anymore, Toto!

It's been an incredible journey so far, and, despite the predictions of some of our friends, we're all still talking to each other. Tomorrow, it's on to Portland, OR, where we'll actually stay for a whole week. Will I miss driving 8 hours a day? Stay tuned to find out!

Sunday, August 1, 2010

From the sublime to the ridiculous

It's always eye opening to speak to folks about organic food. But today I had a different kind of eye-opener when speaking to a farmer.

Yesterday as I wrote, we went to a small Farmers' Market right here in Three Oaks-- a market populated with 90% or more local farmers, nearly all of whom grow organically. We even met a chicken farmer (more on that in a moment).

Today, we went to another Farmers' Market held at a local restaurant. Nearly all the vendors there were from a bit further away, and none of them grew organically. I've really grown to like chatting with farmers, and I'm no longer shy about asking how they grow their food. Today, when I asked one farmer if his farm was organic, he replied, "No. No way. You wouldn't want to eat produce that was produced without chemicals. It's buggy and can't grow well, at least around here."

I was stunned by his response, but I suppose I shouldn't be. There's so much misinformation out there about growing organically. I guess I just didn't expect to hear it from a farmer.

Then we had the opposite experience-- the kind of experience that I hope will become more of the norm for me, and perhaps the world.

Yesterday we met a couple who grow produce and chickens organically on about 1/2 an acre behind their house. They didn't have any chicken with them yesterday, but they invited us to come out to the farm today, which we did. the husband showed us around, showing us the chicken-tractors they use to allow their chickens to graze the grass and grubs they love so much. It was a wonderful and interesting conversation-- one that made me look forward, for the first time in a long time, to eating chicken. We took two whole chickens home. I hadn't ever cut up a whole chicken, so I called my brother the chef, who talked me through dismantling it. I marinated and grilled the pieces, and served it along with skewers of the fresh veggies we'd bought yesterday from the same couple. It was a terrific, tasty, local, organic meal. Heaven, really. I'd like to chat with the man who grows my food every day. I'd like to eat like that every day.

With One Small Step...

726 miles, 14 hours on the road, and we have arrived in Three Oaks, Michigan at my mom’s summer cabin to begin our tour of this great country of hours. The journey was long and traffic-filled, but otherwise uneventful. The boys watched 7 movies or so, and we listened to about 2/3 of a mindless Clive Cussler mystery on CD. We know this route like the backs of our hands-- 287 South for about 10 miles, and then 700 or so miles on Rt. 80 through Pennsylvania (65 miles per hour, strict police enforcement), Ohio (less strict), Indiana (70 glorious mph, nary a cop in view), and then up into Michigan for a few miles. We spent the first full day sleeping late and hanging out at the pool, and then the evening was pizza and salad at the pavilion here on site, followed by a few games of bingo with 125 people or so. The community here at the cabin resort is so nice and laid back; both boys made friends instantly and were able to wander around safely and worry-free. We finished the day with a bonfire I made near my mom’s cabin (thank you, thank you very much, I’ll be here all week!), smores, and the good company of 4 other really nice couples that my mom and my aunt (also a “camper” as everyone around here calls themselves!) have made over the years. A totally fun and relaxing first day-- especially since we didn’t spend a moment in the car!
Yesterday, we slept late again (yeah!), and then went into Three Oaks proper for a breakfast that couldn’t be beat, and a visit to the town’s charming Farmers’ Market. There were twelve stalls or so-- every one with exclusively local farm products, and almost all produced without the use of pesticides. Fascinating that almost no farmers I’ve spoken with this summer (including Kayam or Farmer Rich, the synagogue’s CSA partner) participate in the federal “Certified Organic” labeling program. Every last one says that the program is filled with loopholes which allow “certified” farmers to actually use various pesticides. So for the “privilege” of massive paperwork, a hefty fee, and random and uneven oversight, a farmer can choose to associate themselves with a certification program that compromises their principles. Or, as most of these farmers have, they can simply avoid claiming to be certified, and simply talk to their customers, telling them (as they do) that they grow their goods naturally, without the use of pesticides. It’s a real shame that this process has been co-opted, but it simply underscores what I believe more and more all the time; we’ve got to get back in real relationship with one another, and then we wouldn’t have to worry quite so much about official labeling requirements.

I loved chatting up the farmers, hearing their stories, and sharing my experiences at Kayam. We bought organic eggs, as well as sweet corn (non-organic; haven’t yet found any organic sweet corn), potatoes, cherry tomatoes, zucchini, herbs, onions, garlic-- all good things we can grill tonight!

After a brief stop back at the cabin to drop off the produce, we headed up to Saugatuck, MI, where we met up with the family of a woman who Elyssa had spent 4 summers with when they were young teens at a Wisconsin summer camp. After 25 years, they reconnected last year on Facebook, and they reunited yesterday! We had a great time with them. They’re super nice folks, and our kids got along smashingly well. We then wandered the charming town, picnicked for dinner by the Kalamazoo River, and enjoyed the “Venetian Night” festivities which included a Boat Parade and fireworks over the river. Another terrific day and late night.

Today will likely be another pool day. It’s a rough life, let me tell you!